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Fishless Cycling for Axolotls
A clear UK beginner guide (with no nonsense)
You’ve bought the tank.
You’ve picked a name.
You’ve told people you’re getting an axolotl.
Then the advice starts flying at you from every direction.
• “Just put the axolotl in, it’ll cycle naturally.”
• “We always used a goldfish.”
• “The water looks clear, so it’s fine.”
• “Pet shops do this all the time.”
Most of that advice is wrong.
Some of it is dangerous.
All of it can shorten your axolotl’s life.
This guide cuts through the confusion and shows you exactly how to fishless cycle a tank for an axolotl, in plain UK English.
Cycling isn’t optional.
It isn’t overkill.
It’s the difference between a thriving axolotl and a sick one.
What “cycling a tank” actually means
Axolotls are messy animals.
They eat.
They poo.
Their waste produces ammonia, which is highly toxic.
In the wild, lakes and canals are full of beneficial bacteria that deal with this.
A brand-new aquarium has none.
Cycling a tank means growing those bacteria before your axolotl moves in.
No bacteria means:
-
Toxic water
-
Stress
-
Burns to the skin and gills
-
Illness
-
Early death
Clear water does not mean safe water.
The nitrogen cycle (without the science headache)
Here’s what actually happens in your tank.
-
Ammonia
Comes from waste and uneaten food.
Extremely toxic. -
Nitrite
Beneficial bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite.
Still toxic. -
Nitrate
More bacteria convert nitrite into nitrate.
Much safer in low amounts.
Removed with water changes.
Your tank is only safe when:
-
Ammonia is zero
-
Nitrite is zero
-
Nitrate is present but controlled
That’s what cycling achieves.
Why fishless cycling is the only sensible option
Old advice says to use fish to cycle a tank.
That means weeks of exposing animals to toxic water.
Axolotls are even more sensitive than fish.
Fishless cycling:
-
Uses pure ammonia, not animals
-
Causes no suffering
-
Gives you control
-
Builds a stronger, more stable filter
There is no good reason to do it any other way.
What you need before you start
Do not skip this.
• A tank large enough for an axolotl
• A filter suitable for cold water and low flow
• Dechlorinator
• A liquid test kit (not strips)
• A thermometer
• A source of pure ammonia
• Patience
If the ammonia foams when shaken, do not use it.
Step-by-step: fishless cycling an axolotl tank
Step 1: Set up the tank
• Add substrate (fine sand or bare bottom)
• Install filter and thermometer
• Fill with tap water
• Add dechlorinator
• Turn everything on
Let it run for 24 hours.
Step 2: Add ammonia
You are feeding bacteria, not “dirtying” the tank.
• Add ammonia to reach 2–3 ppm
• Test after 30 minutes
• Adjust if needed
Write the result down.
Step 3: Test daily
Test for:
-
Ammonia
-
Nitrite
-
Nitrate
At first:
-
Ammonia stays high
-
Nitrite is zero
-
Nitrate is zero
This is normal.
Step 4: Wait for nitrite
After a week or two:
-
Ammonia starts to drop
-
Nitrite appears and spikes
This is expected.
Do not panic.
Keep ammonia at 2–3 ppm.
Step 5: Wait again (the boring but vital part)
Nitrite can stay high for weeks.
This is where many people give up or rush.
Eventually:
-
Nitrite drops
-
Nitrate rises
This means your tank is nearly ready.
Step 6: The final test
Your tank is cycled when:
• You dose ammonia to 2–3 ppm
• After 24 hours:
-
Ammonia = 0
-
Nitrite = 0
-
Nitrate is present
If either ammonia or nitrite is still showing, keep going.
About ammonia levels (2–3 ppm vs 4 ppm)
You may see other guides recommend cycling to 4 ppm ammonia instead.
Both methods work.
Cycling to 4 ppm:
-
Prepares the filter for heavier waste loads
-
Is often used for very large tanks or future upgrades
Cycling to 2–3 ppm:
-
Is simpler for beginners
-
Is sufficient for a single axolotl in most setups
If this is your first axolotl, 2–3 ppm is a safe and sensible starting point.
Temperature during cycling
Axolotls need cold water.
Bacteria prefer warmer water.
During cycling:
-
16–20°C works well
-
Slightly warmer temperatures up to 28 °C can speed things up.
Once cycling is complete, return the tank to axolotl-safe temperatures.
A quick UK water note (important)
If your cycle seems stuck for weeks with no change, your tap water may be the reason.
Some areas of the UK have very soft water.
Soft water can slow or stall the growth of beneficial bacteria.
Signs this might be happening:
-
Ammonia stays high for weeks
-
Nitrite never appears
-
Test results do not change despite correct dosing
This does not mean you’ve failed.
Do not add your axolotl.
Assess water hardness and buffering before proceeding.
Most tanks cycle without any issues.
This only applies if your cycle refuses to progress.
Common myths to ignore
“The water is clear, so it’s ready.”
Clear water can still be toxic.
“Daily water changes with the axolotl in is fine.”
That exposes them to ammonia and nitrite every day.
“Bottled bacteria makes cycling instant.”
It may help, but testing still matters.
“Axolotls are hardy.”
They are sensitive amphibians, not decorations.
Before your axolotl moves in
Do this first.
• Large water change (50–70%)
• Reduce nitrate to below 20 ppm
• Match temperature carefully
• Test the next day
Only then is the tank ready.
What happens if you skip cycling?
This isn’t scare-mongering. It’s common.
• Gill loss
• Red, burned skin
• Floating issues
• Loss of appetite
• Infections
• Shortened lifespan
Cycling prevents this.
The calm truth
Fishless cycling is slow.
It feels boring.
It delays the exciting part.
It is also the single most important thing you will ever do for your axolotl.
Once it’s done:
-
Daily care is easier
-
Water stays stable
-
Problems are rare
-
Your axolotl thrives instead of just surviving
If you want help choosing ammonia, test kits, or filters that work well in the UK, ask.
Getting this right at the start saves months of stress later.
