What to Actually Feed Your Axolotl And What Will Slowly Kill It

What do axolotls eat?

In the wild, axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) are opportunistic carnivores. Native to the Xochimilco lake complex in Mexico City, they hunt by detecting water movement and vacuuming prey into their mouths. Their natural diet includes small fish, insect larvae, crustaceans, molluscs, and most importantly, worms.

This matters because it tells us exactly what captive axolotls are built to eat: soft-bodied, protein-rich, live or freshly dead prey at an appropriate size. The feeding instinct is almost entirely motion-driven. Which is why live food is so important, especially in the early stages of life.

How axolotls actually eat their food

Watch an axolotl take a worm and you'll understand why feeding them is so different to feeding a fish. They don't bite. They don't chew. They hoover.

Axolotls feed by negative pressure. The lower jaw drops fast, the mouth opens wide, and a vacuum draws everything in front of them straight in. Worm, water, gravel, stray plant fragments, all of it. Whatever clears the gap of their jaw at that moment is going down the throat.

This single fact shapes almost every feeding rule that follows.

It explains the eyes-width rule. Anything wider than the gap between their eyes won't fit through their throat smoothly. They'll suck it in, get it stuck, and you've got an impaction.

It explains why substrate matters. A 1 to 2 inch axolotl can suck up a small piece of gravel without realising. Doesn't pass. Doesn't dissolve. Sits in the gut and slowly kills them. Sand under 1mm in grain size is fine for axolotls over 5 inches because it passes through. Anything bigger is a hazard.

It explains why movement matters so much. The hunt-and-suck reflex is triggered by motion in their visual field. A wriggling worm in front of their face is almost impossible to ignore. A static pellet on the substrate is invisible to that same reflex, which is why pellet-only feeding often fails with younger axolotls.

It also explains why décor needs to be at least the size of an adult fist. They will try to eat anything they can fit in their mouth. Smooth pebbles, plant pots, ornament heads. If it fits, it's food in their tiny brain. Make sure nothing in their tank fits.

So when you read the rest of this guide and see "no wider than the gap between their eyes" repeated, that's why. It's not me being precious about food prep. It's the difference between a healthy lotl and an emergency vet bill.

What not to feed your axolotl, and why

Almost every emergency in the UK axolotl community starts with someone feeding the wrong thing. Either out of guesswork, or because a pet shop told them something incorrect. Here's the list that should be permanently stuck to your fridge.

The simple rule that covers most of this: if it didn't come from a UK axolotl supplier, a reputable live-food keeper, or a quality pellet brand designed specifically for axolotls, don't put it in the tank.

The best food for axolotls in the UK

The honest answer is live earthworms, specifically Dendrobaena worms (also known as European Nightcrawlers, Eisenia hortensis). By a significant margin, the best primary food source available to UK axolotl owners once your axolotl reaches a decent size. Before that, live moving food is everything.

Why Dendrobaena worms are the best choice

Dendrobaena worms, the species we raise here in Yorkshire, have become the go-to live food for serious axolotl keepers in the UK for several good reasons.

Nutritional profile

Dendrobaena worms are high in protein (typically 60 to 70% of dry weight), contain natural fats and amino acids, and have a soft body wall that axolotls can digest easily. Unlike mealworms, there is no indigestible chitin shell. Unlike pellets, the nutrients are bioavailable in their natural form. Rich in calcium for strong bone density, and low enough in fat to help prevent the liver disease that is a common cause of mortality in captive axolotls.

Size suitability

Dendrobaena worms are medium-sized earthworms, typically 5 to 12cm when extended. For juveniles from around 2.5 inches, they can be chopped into small pieces and introduced gradually. The rule of thumb at every life stage: the food item should be no wider than the space between your axolotl's eyes.

Clean and safe

Farm-raised Dendrobaena worms like ours are grown in controlled conditions, free from pesticides, soil contaminants, and parasites. This is a critical advantage over wild-caught garden worms, which carry a real risk of chemical exposure, particularly in the UK, where garden pesticide use is widespread.

They stay alive and they move

Unlike bloodworms or pellets, live Dendrobaena worms move in the water and trigger the axolotl's natural hunting response. A worm wriggling in front of them is almost impossible to ignore. A static pellet many axolotls will simply walk past.

How Dendrobaena compare to other worms

Not all worms are created equal. This comes up constantly in the axolotl community, so here is a straight breakdown.

Dendrobaena worms, the best choice

Hardy, actively wriggling, highly nutritious, and critically, they do not secrete the bitter yellow fluid that causes many axolotls to spit their food back out. Your axolotl snaps, swallows, done.

Lobworms (common earthworms)

Nutritionally excellent, but they run large. You will often have to cut them into pieces, which can cloud your tank water. Fine for big adult axolotls, less practical for anything smaller.

Red wigglers

A perfectly valid staple food from around 3 inches and plenty of axolotls eat them happily. The one thing worth knowing: they can taste bitter to some axolotls. If yours snaps, then spits and seems uninterested, that bitterness is likely the reason. Switch to Dendrobaena and you will almost certainly not have the same problem, they have no bitter secretion at all. But if your axolotl is eating red wigglers without complaint, there is no reason to change.

Blackworms

An excellent staple food for younger axolotls from around 1 inch up to 3 inches. High protein, good movement to trigger the feeding reflex, and the right size for smaller animals. Harder to source in the UK than Dendrobaena, but worth seeking out for this life stage.

Feeding by life stage

This is where most guides fall short. A hatchling axolotl and an adult axolotl need completely different feeding approaches. Get the early stages right and you set them up for life.

How much to feed an axolotl

The most common mistake with adult axolotls is overfeeding. The opposite mistake, underfeeding hatchlings and juveniles, is just as damaging. Young axolotls need live food available constantly. Adults are far more forgiving.

For adult axolotls (9 inches+), feed them what they can consume in 15 to 20 minutes, and remove any uneaten food immediately. For younger animals, keep live food in the tank around the clock.

How often to feed an axolotl

Frequency is everything at the younger stages. Hatchlings cannot go without food. Adults are much more resilient. The full breakdown:

A healthy adult axolotl fed every 2 to 3 days will be more active, have better water quality, and live longer than one fed daily. If you are used to feeding fish, this takes some adjustment. Axolotls are not fish. If there is uneaten food left in the tank after 20 minutes, remove it immediately with a turkey baster or siphon and reduce the portion next time.

How to actually feed your axolotl

The mechanics of putting food in front of an axolotl get glossed over in most guides, which is mad because it's the bit new keepers struggle with most. There are three main ways to feed, each suited to a different scenario.

Tong feeding, the gold standard

This is how most experienced UK keepers feed their adults. Long aquarium tongs, soft tip, hold the worm by the back end, lower it slowly to within an inch of your axolotl's face. Wiggle it gently. They'll snap.

Why tong feeding wins:

• You see exactly what they ate, so portion control is precise
• Uneaten food doesn't settle and rot in the substrate
• You build trust with the animal because they associate you with food
• You can feed multiple axolotls separately in the same tank without competition bites

Cheap tongs from Amazon work fine. Stainless steel, around 25cm length, soft rubber-coated tip, so you don't damage your axolotl's mouth on a missed lunge. They lunge fast and sometimes hit hard.

Hand feeding, for the brave and the patient

Same principle as tong feeding, but with a worm pinched between your fingertips. Some axolotls prefer this. They get used to your hand, swim up to take the worm, and over months will start associating your hand with food and approaching it when they see it.

A few warnings. Wash your hands first with plain water, no soap, no sanitiser, no hand cream. Anything on your skin goes into the tank. Also be ready for a hard suck. Adult axolotls hit fingertips like a tiny vacuum and it can startle you the first time. Don't drop the worm halfway through, don't snatch your hand back, and don't worry, they don't have teeth that do damage. Sandpaper at most.

Free feeding, for hatchlings and young juveniles

Up to about 3 inches, axolotls need food available constantly. You can't tong-feed a hatchling 24 hours a day, so the technique here is different. You're keeping live food in the tub or tank around the clock. Live baby brine shrimp at the early stage, live blackworms as they grow. You're maintaining a constant pantry rather than serving meals.

This is messy and high-maintenance. It's also why many breeders raise axolotls only in dedicated rearing setups. Don't try to free-feed in a planted display tank. The blackworms will dig in and breed, and you'll have a worm-infested tank within weeks.

Target feeding for multiple axolotls

If you've got two or more axolotls in one tank, you must feed them individually. They cannot reliably distinguish a worm from a tankmate's leg in the heat of a feeding response, and bites happen. Tong-feed each one separately, watching that one swallows before moving to the next. If one consistently muscles in on the other's portion, place a divider between them during feeding time.

Removing uneaten food

Every guide says it. Most new keepers ignore it. Don't. Any worm or pellet that hits the substrate and isn't eaten within 20 minutes needs to come out. Turkey baster works perfectly for both pieces of worm and uneaten pellets. Dead food rots fast. Rotting food spikes ammonia. Spiked ammonia kills your cycle and burns your axolotl. The whole problem starts with one uneaten worm sitting in the corner.

Worms vs pellets: which is better?

This debate comes up constantly in the UK axolotl community. The short answer: worms win, but pellets have a real role.

Before 3 inches, pellets are not appropriate at all. Young axolotls need live moving food. A static pellet does not register as prey. From 3 inches onwards, pellets become a legitimate part of the diet, the rule of thumb is 1 to 2 pellets per inch of axolotl per feeding.

The problem with cheaper pellets is the quality of their ingredients. Many contain fillers and plant-based proteins that do not align with the axolotl's carnivorous physiology. NT Labs Pro-F Axolotl Pellets are one of the better options on the market, specifically formulated for axolotls rather than adapted from a generic amphibian recipe.

Why variety matters, and what a good rotation looks like

Can you feed Dendrobaena worms and nothing else for ten years? Yes, plenty of UK keepers do. But there's a strong argument for a small rotation, and it's worth knowing why.

Different proteins carry different amino acid profiles. A worm-only diet hits most needs but not all. It's the same reason humans don't thrive on a single food. Live on chicken alone, and you'd survive, but you'd be missing the omega-3s you'd get from oily fish, the monounsaturated fats from olive oil, the trace minerals from leafy greens. None of those things alone is essential to staying alive. All of them together are essential to thriving. Pellets fill in some of the trace elements worms can be light on. Frozen prawns once a fortnight add omega-3s in slightly different ratios. Variety covers the gaps.

There's also a behavioural argument. Axolotls fed exclusively one food can become picky, especially as they age. The lotl that's eaten Dendrobaena every day for two years sometimes simply refuses to consider a pellet when you need a backup. If you've already trained their palate with occasional variety, they'll accept alternatives without drama when life happens (you run out of worms, you go on holiday, your supplier has a stock issue).

A solid weekly rotation looks something like this:

• Three to four meals: Live Dendrobaena worms (the staple)
• One meal: NT Labs Pro-F pellets or Repashy Grub Pie
• Occasional weekly treat: Live blackworms, frozen bloodworms, or a small piece of thawed prawn

Adjust to your axolotl's life stage and your own setup. The point is that the staple stays staple, the supplement stays consistent, and the treats get varied. Same principle as feeding a dog. You don't need to engineer a complicated diet, you just need to avoid the trap of feeding one single thing forever.

Feeding axolotls through the UK seasons

The British climate is one of the few things actually working in your favour as an axolotl keeper. Most of the year, our houses stay at temperatures that suit axolotls with little intervention. But there are patterns worth knowing.

Spring (March to May)

Tank temperatures rise gradually. Appetite usually picks up as days lengthen. Feed adults at the upper end of the recommended frequency (every 2 days rather than every 3) because they're more active. Watch out for sudden warm days in late April and May, they catch keepers out. A south-facing window can raise a tank's temperature from 17°C to 22°C in a few hours.

Summer (June to August)

The tricky season. UK heatwaves are getting worse, and axolotls suffer above 20°C. Above 22°C is genuinely dangerous.

Appetite drops naturally as temperatures rise. Don't try to force-feed. Drop frequency to every 3 to 4 days for adults if they're refusing meals at the usual schedule. The biggest mistake is leaving uneaten worms in a warm tank, where they'll rot in hours and crash your water quality at the exact moment your axolotl is already stressed.

Cooling priority shifts above feeding priority. If the tank is at 21°C, sort the temperature first, then feeding. Frozen water bottles, fans, ice in a sandwich bag floated on the surface. Whatever it takes. A chiller is the best investment if you can afford one (Hailea 150A handles a 150L tank comfortably).

Autumn (September to November)

Best feeding season of the year. Tank temps drop back to that comfortable 15 to 18°C window, axolotls become noticeably more active, and appetite returns. If your axolotl lost weight over a hot summer (sunken belly, visible spine), this is the recovery window. Feed every 2 days, maybe slightly larger portions, and you'll see them fill back out within a few weeks.

Winter (December to February)

Coldest UK months are actually fine for axolotls. They're cold-water animals. Tank temperatures around 14°C are still safe and many keepers prefer them. Appetite drops slightly because metabolism slows in cooler water, which is normal and not cause for alarm. Drop frequency to every 3 to 4 days for adults. Watch for one specific issue: heating systems drying out the air around the tank, which can shift evaporation rates and concentrate parameters. Top up with dechlorinated water more often than you'd think.

The general rule across all seasons: feed less in heat, feed normally in cold, watch your axolotl's body condition rather than counting meals.

How to store live worms for axolotls

One of the most common reasons axolotl owners stop using live worms is that they do not know how to keep them alive between feedings. Stored correctly, Dendrobaena worms will last weeks or months, long enough to get through a 50g or 100g pack without waste.

Before you feed: rinse them first

Even farm-raised worms come with bedding. Before feeding, rinse a small handful quickly in a cup of dechlorinated tank water. Takes ten seconds and means you are not introducing anything from the bedding into your axolotl's tank.

The Wormi Vermi Worm Keeper Box solves the ventilation and container problem in one. Pair it with our worm chow, and your worms will stay alive and healthy for weeks. For a full step-by-step breakdown, read our dedicated worm storage guide.

Constipation, impaction, and the salmon trick

Two different problems, often confused, with very different fixes.

Constipation in axolotls

Your axolotl is head-down, tail floating up, hovering at an odd angle. They might stay like this for hours, sometimes a couple of days. They're constipated. Uncomfortable, but not usually serious if you act on it.

Common causes include overfeeding, slightly warm tank water, or a worm that was a touch too large but still managed to go down. The fix is straightforward.

First, stop feeding for 48 hours. Their gut needs to clear, not have more added.

Second, drop the tank temperature a little. Cooler water helps the gut move. If you're sitting at 18°C, drop to 16°C with frozen water bottles or by knocking on the chiller. Don't shock them with a sudden 5 degree drop, ease it down over a few hours.

Third, the salmon trick.

This is the one experienced UK keepers swear by, and most guides don't mention. Raw salmon, first frozen for at least 30 days to kill any parasites, then thawed at room temperature, cut into a tiny piece (no bigger than the gap between their eyes, same rule as always). Offer it once. The natural oil content acts as a gentle laxative and helps them pass whatever is stuck. One small piece is enough. You're not making salmon a staple, you're using it as medicine.

Most cases clear within 48 hours. If the position lasts longer than three days, or if your axolotl looks visibly bloated or distressed, it's vet time.

Impaction is different and worse

Impaction occurs when something physical blocks the gut. Usually gravel. Sometimes a piece of decor. Occasionally a worm that was way too big. The signs look similar to constipation at first (head down, tail up, off food), but they don't pass. Days go by. The axolotl gets more lethargic. Sometimes you'll see a visible bulge in the belly that doesn't move.

You can't fix impaction at home. Don't try.

Tub the axolotl in clean dechlorinated water and contact an exotic vet immediately. Surgery is sometimes needed. The longer you wait, the worse the prognosis. This is one of the most common preventable causes of axolotl death in UK households, and the prevention is simple. No gravel. Sand only if your axolotl is over 5 inches. Decor at least the size of an adult fist. Worms cut to eye-width.

Get the setup right and you'll never need this section.

How to tell if you're feeding too much or too little

Forget feeding charts for a moment. Your axolotl's body tells you whether you're getting it right. Here's what to look for.

Signs of overfeeding

A round, distended belly that doesn't go down between meals. A noticeable waddle when they walk, gills sometimes pinned back. Lethargy and reluctance to move. Floating after meals (because excess food in the gut traps gas). And the long-term killer, fatty deposits visible behind the head and along the back as a thickened layer.

The biggest single risk of overfeeding is fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis), which is one of the most common causes of premature death in captive axolotls. It's preventable. Just feed less.

If you spot any of these, drop frequency to every 3 to 4 days for an adult, and reduce portion size by a third. Their gut and liver need a break.

Signs of underfeeding

A sunken stomach when viewed from above (their belly should be slightly rounded, not concave). Visible spine bumps along the back. Thin gills, sometimes with the gill stalks shrinking inward. Slow growth in juveniles. Lethargy, but a different kind to overfeeding lethargy. Underfed axolotls often hover near the substrate without moving much.

Increase frequency to twice daily for a week or two and watch for recovery. If they don't bounce back, check water parameters first (poor water quality kills appetite), then consider a vet visit.

The healthy adult axolotl

Belly slightly rounded, not bulging. Gills full and feathery, sticking outward and slightly forward. Active in the evenings, walking around the tank, exploring. Eyes bright. Skin smooth without any peeling.

Take a side photo of your axolotl every month. Look back over six months and you'll see whether they're trending towards too thin or too round. It's the simplest health monitoring you can do.

Feeding a sick or stressed axolotl

When something's gone wrong (recent move, ammonia spike, fungus treatment, post-operation recovery), feeding strategy changes.

A stressed axolotl will refuse food for several days. That's normal. Don't keep offering meals every few hours hoping they'll change their mind, because the uneaten food will rot and make the situation worse. Stop feeding for 3 to 5 days, fix the underlying problem (water quality, temperature, parasite, whatever it is), and try a small worm only after they've stabilised.

Tubbed axolotls (those in a separate container during treatment) feed on the same schedule as normal but in a controlled environment. Tong-feed one worm at a time, watch them swallow, remove anything uneaten within 10 minutes. Don't leave food in a tub overnight. Tubs have no filtration.

After fungus treatment, particularly tea baths or methylene blue, the slime coat is recovering and the axolotl is more sensitive. Soft worms (Dendrobaena, blackworms) are kinder than pellets. Skip pellets entirely until they're back in the main tank and behaving normally.

If your axolotl hasn't eaten in 14 days and there's no obvious cause (no ammonia, temperature is fine, no visible illness), that's a vet visit. Healthy adults can fast for two weeks but extended fasting points to something more serious.

Calcium, gut-loading, and supplementation

Most healthy adult axolotls fed a varied diet of live worms and quality pellets don't need supplementation. Worms naturally carry calcium, and the bone density problems you'd see in some reptile keeping rarely show up in axolotls fed properly.

That said, two things are worth knowing.

Gut-loading worms

Worms reflect the nutritional profile of what they've been eating over the last 24 hours. If you keep your worms in plain coir bedding with no food, you're feeding your axolotl a hollower meal than you could be. A small amount of quality worm chow once or twice a week (we sell ours, but any decent vegetable-based chow works) increases the protein and calcium content of the worm itself. It's basically a free nutritional upgrade.

Calcium for soft water keepers

If you're in a soft water area (most of the north of England, Scotland, and Wales), your tap water is low in dissolved minerals. Over time, this can leach calcium from your axolotl's slime coat and gill tissue. The fix isn't dietary, it's environmental. A pinch of crushed coral in your filter or a dose of Seachem Equilibrium during water changes raises GH and gives your axolotl the mineral profile it actually needs. If you're seeing pale gills, slow gill regrowth, or skin that looks dull, check your GH first before changing the diet.

Common axolotl feeding problems

My axolotl won't eat

The most common causes are: water temperature above 20°C (this suppresses appetite, check it first), a recent tank move or change causing stress, illness, or the food is not triggering a response. Try wiggling a worm directly in front of their face with tongs. If they have not eaten in two or more weeks and appear lethargic, consult an exotic vet.

My axolotl spits out the worm

Usually means the worm is too large, try a smaller worm or cut it into sections. With cut Dendrobaena, try cutting smaller before giving up entirely. It can also simply mean your axolotl is full. If you are using red wigglers, that bitter secretion is the most likely culprit, switch to Dendrobaena and the problem almost always disappears.

If your axolotl is still being picky, try a 3-second blanching dip in near-boiling water followed by a cold-water shock. This removes the bitter surface mucus and often makes the worm instantly acceptable.

My axolotl ate gravel

A surprisingly common issue. Axolotls will vacuum-suck anything that looks like food. If your tank has a gravel substrate, consider switching to sand or a bare bottom. Gravel ingestion can cause impaction, if your axolotl stops eating and appears bloated, see a vet.

My worms keep dying before I use them

Almost always a storage issue. Check temperature, moisture, and ventilation. See the storage section above.

🚨 Emergency? Read our step-by-step troubleshooting guide: Help! My Axolotl's Worms Are Dying.

For everyday care, our Worm Keeper Box and worm chow significantly extend worm lifespan.

My axolotl bit my other axolotl's leg

Feed them separately. This is normal feeding reflex behaviour, not aggression. The good news: axolotls have remarkable regenerative ability and will regrow lost limbs in most cases.

Frequently asked questions

What worms are best for axolotls?

Dendrobaena worms (European Nightcrawlers, Eisenia hortensis, Dendrobaena veneta, same worm, many names) are the best for adult axolotls. High in protein, soft-bodied for easy digestion, the right size, and farm-raised so they carry no pesticide or parasite risk. They do not release the bitter secretion that red wigglers can produce, which means axolotls eat them reliably without spitting. For axolotls under 1.5 inches, live blackworms and baby brine shrimp are the staples.

Can axolotls eat earthworms?

Yes, earthworms are one of the best foods for axolotls from around 2.5 inches. However, wild-caught garden earthworms carry real risks, pesticides, heavy metals, or parasites from garden soil. Always use farm-raised earthworms from a reputable UK supplier rather than worms dug from your garden.

How many worms should I feed my axolotl?

For an adult axolotl (9 inches+), feed 1 to 3 Dendrobaena worms daily or every 2 to 3 days. For growing juveniles (3 to 9 inches), feed 2 to 5 worms 2 to 3 times daily. Warning: Axolotls are prone to choking or fatal impaction if live food is not sized and introduced correctly. View our essential step-by-step feeding method above to ensure they swallow their food safely, and always remove uneaten food within 20 minutes to protect water quality.

How often should I feed my axolotl?

Hatchlings and early juveniles need live food available 24/7. Growing juveniles (3 to 9 inches) should be fed 2 to 3 times daily. Adults (9 inches+ or 9 months+) should be offered food daily, but can go 2 to 3 days without eating. Overfeeding adults is one of the most common mistakes new owners make.

What size worms are best for axolotls?

The food item should be no wider than the space between your axolotl's eyes at every life stage. For adults over 7 inches, most can handle full-sized Dendrobaena worms. Younger axolotls need pieces cut with scissors, start small and increase size as they grow and get more confident.

Are Dendrobaena worms safe for axolotls?

Yes, completely safe and widely regarded as the best live food option in the UK. Soft-bodied, easily digestible, high in protein, and when farm-raised, carry no risk of pesticides or parasites.

How long do live worms last for axolotl feeding?

Stored correctly, in a ventilated container at 8 to 15°C with damp bedding, Dendrobaena worms will live for 2 to 4 weeks. A 50g pack typically lasts 2 to 3 weeks for a single adult axolotl. A 100g pack lasts around 3 to 4 weeks. Feeding the worms a small amount of worm chow keeps them healthy and extends their lifespan.

How much do I need per month for one axolotl?

A single adult axolotl fed every 2 to 3 days will typically go through around 100 to 200g per month. Our 100g pack is a good starting point for one adult axolotl. Our 200g pack is ideal for one axolotl with some spare. For two axolotls, a 500g monthly supply is comfortable with minimal waste.

Can I feed my axolotl frozen worms?

You can freeze Dendrobaena worms and use them later, freezing kills any potential pathogens. Thaw them fully at room temperature before feeding. Live worms are preferable because the movement triggers the feeding response more reliably. Frozen bloodworms from a pet shop are a useful supplement but should be used as a treat rather than a staple from 3 inches onwards.

Do axolotls eat every day?

Young axolotls need food available constantly. Adult axolotls (9 inches+ or 9 months+) should be offered food daily but can comfortably go 2 to 3 days without eating, their metabolism slows significantly as they mature. Feeding adults too frequently is one of the most common mistakes new owners make.

Are pellets okay for axolotls?

From 3 inches onwards, yes. Quality pellets like NT Labs Pro-F Axolotl Pellets can be used as a staple diet at a rate of 1 to 2 pellets per inch of axolotl. Before 3 inches, pellets are not suitable, young axolotls need live moving food. Most keepers find a combination of live worms and quality pellets works best long-term.

My axolotl spits out the worm, what's wrong?

A worm too large is the most common cause, cut it smaller. With Dendrobaena, try cutting smaller before writing them off entirely. If you are using red wigglers, the bitter secretion is the likely culprit. Switch to Dendrobaena and you will almost certainly not see the same problem.

Can I feed my axolotl human food?

No. Axolotls are obligate carnivores with a very specific gut chemistry. Bread, dairy, fruit, vegetables, cooked meats, processed foods, none of them are appropriate. Even raw chicken or beef, which look like 'just protein', cause fatty liver disease over time because mammalian fat is too rich. The only human food item with any place in axolotl care is raw salmon, used occasionally as a constipation aid (see our salmon trick section above), and even then it's not a food, it's medicine.

How long can an axolotl survive without eating?

A healthy adult can fast for around two weeks without serious damage if water quality is good. Juveniles tolerate much less, days rather than weeks. Hatchlings starve within 48 hours without food. Most cases of an adult skipping meals for 3 to 5 days are stress-related and resolve on their own. Beyond two weeks, get a vet involved.

Why is my axolotl floating after eating?

Usually trapped air or gas from food digestion. Common after a big meal, especially with adult axolotls fed pellets. They'll typically settle back down within a day. If they're stuck floating for more than 48 hours, can't get back to the substrate, or look distressed, tub them in shallow water (just enough to cover their body) so they can rest at the bottom while the gas passes. Don't feed during this period.

Do I really need to remove uneaten food from the tank?

Yes. Every time. Worm pieces, pellets, anything that hit the substrate and didn't get eaten in 20 minutes needs to come out. Decomposing food spikes ammonia within hours, and ammonia spikes are the single biggest cause of axolotl illness in UK households. Turkey baster, cheap, fast, takes 30 seconds.

Can axolotls eat insects?

Most insects are not safe. Mealworms, crickets, beetles, woodlice, all have hard chitin shells that axolotls can't digest, leading to impaction. Soft-bodied insect larvae (live bloodworms, mosquito larvae) are fine as occasional treats. Wax worms and plain maggots can be used as occasional fatty treats but never as staples. The general rule: if it crunches, don't feed it.

Is it OK if my axolotl skips a meal?

Almost always yes. Adult axolotls naturally skip meals, especially in summer or when they're slightly off colour. One missed meal is nothing. Two or three in a row, check your water parameters and tank temperature before doing anything else, because that's the most likely cause. Beyond a week of refusal, look more closely for signs of illness.

Should I gut-load my worms before feeding?

It's a worthwhile habit but not strictly necessary if you're feeding farm-raised worms that have been kept on quality bedding. Sprinkling a small amount of worm chow on the bedding 24 hours before feeding bumps up the protein and calcium content of the worm itself. We sell our own worm chow, but any quality vegetable-based chow works.

What's the difference between Dendrobaena and European Nightcrawlers?

They're the same worm. Dendrobaena veneta is the scientific name, Dendrobaena is the common UK name, European Nightcrawler is what they're usually called in the US. Eisenia hortensis is sometimes used in older literature. All four refer to the same species. If you're shopping in the UK and you see any of these names on the label, you're getting the right worm.

How do I feed my axolotl while I'm on holiday?

Healthy adults can fast for the duration of a typical UK holiday (one to two weeks) without harm. Don't try automatic feeders or 'holiday blocks', they cause more problems than they solve. The bigger holiday risk is water quality, not food. Set up a Pozzani filter for any water changes your house-sitter does, or do a 50% change the day before you leave so the tank is in pristine condition when you go. For longer trips (over two weeks), arrange for a confident keeper to visit and tong-feed once a week.

Order live Dendrobaena worms, UK delivery

All our Dendrobaena worms are raised on our farm in Huddersfield, Yorkshire. We ship across the UK with a live arrival guarantee, and every order comes packed to keep your worms healthy in transit.

Not sure about tank setup yet? Read our complete guide to fishless cycling, because feeding a healthy axolotl starts with a cycled tank.