Starting a new worm bin may seem like a big step, but it’s a rewarding and engaging process for the whole family. Vermicomposting is a great way to reduce your carbon footprint, enrich your garden soil, and create a sustainable ecosystem in your home.
It’s like starting a new hobby with a few more wriggly participants! My children love telling the teachers they have thousands of pets.
As much as I would like to give you a foolproof list of things to do, the truth is that there are too many variables. Humidity, worm species, temperature, and bedding all affect how your bin operates. But don’t let that discourage you. If you follow these few steps, you will be on your way to a successful vermicomposting journey.

Vermicomposting: 7 Steps Success
Step 1: Gather the Necessary Materials
When it comes to selecting a bin for your vermicomposting adventure, I would always recommend you go as large as possible; the bigger, the better for me; when it comes to vermicomposting, the surface area is the key, as worms like to stay in the top 6 inches of the bedding, they will bury deeper if conditions aren’t right so getting a bin at least 12 inch deep is a good idea in case things turn rotten the worms have a place to go, rather than climbing out of their new plush home.
There are some options for ready-made worm bins. We always prefer to recycle where we can. Facebook Marketplace and Freecycle can be great ways to get free or cheap containers to create a worm farm.
To simplify things, I will discuss a general 45-litre box with a lid like the one below.
The reason to go with a black one rather than a clear one is that worms don’t like light, so they will be much more comfortable in an opaque box. Light can stress the worms and cause them to burrow deeper, disrupting the composting process. If you already have a clear box, you could wrap something around it to block the light rather than spending money on another one.
It’s best to get a box with a lid and keep it on. Worms can decide, if conditions aren’t quite right, to get up and leave. This can be disturbing, especially if your significant other comes downstairs in the morning, eyes still half closed, to find 1000 worms crawling around the kitchen floor. Believe me, no one needs that in their lives.
Once you have your box, you will also need some bedding. Coco coir works well, and I find it best to mix it with some vermicompost from another container. If you don’t already have some, you could combine a bit of shop-bought compost to make it more appealing to the worms. Corrugated cardboard strips are a great addition. The worms enjoy munching through them, but try not to add any shiny cardboard or packing tape.
Now that you have the bin and the bedding, you will also need some worms. We are often asked, “How many worms should I add?” We used to say, “Just add a few, and the numbers will build up as compost worms reproduce quickly.”
Now, we advise you to add as many as you can afford. The more worms, the quicker they will deal with the food waste. And that’s what it is all about.
Step 2: Prepare your worm bin!
This involves a couple of simple tasks, such as drilling holes, adding the bedding, and introducing the worms. We’ll guide you through each step to ensure your worm bin is ready for action. Let’s start with drilling some holes around the top of the box. Be careful; pushing too hard can shatter some plastics, especially the clear ones.
The holes should be around 3mm, not too big, or your worms could escape through them around the top of the bin.
Now add the bedding, making sure it is saturated but not dripping. This will help any microbes in there multiply, giving the worms a great place to live. Remember that they live in the soil, so they are used to living in and crawling around an abundance of microbes.
You can add a handful of garden soil into the vermicompost. This will add a host of life to the mix: bacteria, protozoa nematodes, pot worms, springtails, and other microarthropods; these will all add to an excellent compost ecosystem. However, if you don’t fancy adding all this extra microbiota and creepy crawlies, give the outdoor soil a miss…. it’s not for everyone
Step 3: Add your worms!
If you haven’t already, you can buy worms from us. We sell a mix of Dendrobeana and Eisenia fetida, as these work well together in a compost set-up and would be found together in nature; we also sell red worms, which are ferocious eaters and will multiply quickly.
Some people will tell you tiger worms (Eisenia fetida) are the best for vermicomposting, but we haven’t found this true. We will soon be doing a video on racing 100g of both species eating some food, so watch out for that.
We ship our worms with royal mail tracked 24, so they should get to you the next day if ordered in the morning, ensuring a secure and reliable delivery process.
If you don’t want to pay for worms, I will cover the process of farming your worms in a future blog post. This method takes longer, but it’s a great learning experience and a sustainable way to maintain your vermicomposting system.
Now, it’s time to add the worms to the bin. Pour your worms onto the top of the bedding, and they should make their way down into it. Leave the lid off so light gets to the worms, and they will bury down away from it. Worms are adaptable creatures that’ll quickly settle into their new home.
Once the worms are in the bedding, put a piece of dry corrugated cardboard over them, place the lid over the top, and leave for 24 hours. The cardboard stops moisture from clinging to the plastic walls, so the worms don’t start climbing.
When you return to them, they are crawling up the sides of the box. Mix them all by hand back into the bedding and leave for another 24 hours. This settling period is crucial as it allows the worms to acclimate to their new environment and reduces the chances of them trying to escape. Repeat this process until they are settled in.

Step 4: Start Feeding
Okay, so this is what you got into vermicomposting for….recycling your food waste.
You must feed the worms the correct food and feedstock. This typically includes fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea (leave out the bags unless they are plastic-free), and crushed eggshells.
Avoid feeding them meat and dairy, as these can attract pests. Some people say to leave out citrus and onions, but we’ve never had a problem with these, especially if chopped up well. When feeding your worms, chop the food into small pieces to make it easier for them to consume. Also, add some extra dry cardboard with the food to soak up any additional moisture, preventing the compost bin from turning slimy and stinky.
You want to chop your food up as small as possible when you feed them. Some people like to use a blender, and others don’t like to use electricity when composting, as it seems to detract from the ethos of the process. I have done both, and because I like simplicity over everything, I chop up my food into reasonably small bits.
Worms don’t have teeth. They have little mouths, so the microbes, bacteria, and fungi will start breaking the food down first, making it soft and easy for the worms to chew. So don’t be surprised if the food goes a bit furry while it’s in the bin.
Add some extra dry cardboard with the food to soak up any extra moisture.
Step 5: continue to feed.
There is no magic formula for how much to feed per worm (not one that is realistic, anyway). Every bin and feedstock is different.
All the books, blogs, and articles we have read on the subject state that you shouldn’t overfeed and should wait for the existing food scraps to be entirely eaten before you add more. This is excellent advice, and I think when you first get started or keep your bin inside, you should definitely follow it.
That being said….. we have several bins outside that do not follow this advice. They are half filled with bedding, and then we keep adding food to the top until it is full. Then, we add food to another bin until that one is full. It goes on like this until all the food is consumed in the first one, and start the process again, as I said previously…. I like simplicity.
I never have problems doing it this way except for a few extra flies. That’s why it’s best not to do it like this inside.
Step 6: Maintaining the vermicompost.
Monitoring Moisture Levels and Temperature
Keeping the proper moisture and temperature is essential for a healthy worm bin.
- Moisture Level: Worms need a moist environment like a damp sponge. If the bedding dries out, lightly mist it with water. If it’s too wet, add more dry bedding like shredded newspaper. Remember, you can never add too much cardboard
- Temperature: The ideal temperature for worms is between 13°C–25°C. Although native to the UK, they can stand lower temperatures; just don’t let them freeze.
Checklist for Regular Maintenance:
- Stir the bedding gently every few weeks to improve airflow.
- Check that the worms are not all up against the side or trying to climb out. This is a sign that something is not quite right. Stop feeding for a while and monitor the situation. Add more cardboard.
- Check that worms are not dying; you will always get some dying as part of the natural cycle, but I would say if you are getting more than 1 or 2 a week, that is a problem
Troubleshooting Common Problems
- Bad Odour: Indicates overfeeding or poor drainage. Remove excess food and add dry bedding.
- Worms Escaping: This may mean the bedding is too wet or dry or lacks ventilation. Adjust moisture and ensure enough airflow.
- Fruit Flies or Gnats: Bury food scraps under bedding and keep the bin covered with a lid.
Step 7: Harvesting the Vermicompost
When and How to Harvest Compost
Harvesting your vermicompost is an exciting step. You see the results of your efforts—a rich, dark, and nutrient-packed soil amendment that smells earthy and looks crumbly. Knowing when and how to harvest ensures that your worms remain healthy and that you get the most out of your compost.
When to Harvest
The compost is ready to harvest when:
The material in your bin is predominantly dark, crumbly, and soil-like.
You can no longer distinguish most original bedding or food scraps.
This process typically takes 2–3 months, depending on the bin size, the number of worms, and how often you feed them.
- How to Harvest
There are two standard methods to harvest vermicompost while keeping most of your worms in the bin.
- Side-to-Side Migration Method
- Step 1: Stop feeding the worms for about a week before harvesting to encourage them to consume any remaining scraps.
- Step 2: Push the finished compost to one side of the bin.
- Step 3: Add fresh bedding and food to the empty side of the bin.
- Step 4: The worms will migrate to the new bedding and food over the next week or two.
- Step 5: Scoop out the finished compost from the other side once most worms have moved.
This method is simple, non-disruptive, and doesn’t require handling too many worms directly.
- Light Separation Method
- Step 1: Dump all the bin’s contents onto a large, flat surface like a tarp or a table.
- Step 2: Under bright light (sunlight or a lamp), form the compost into small mounds or piles.
- Step 3: Worms instinctively burrow to escape the light, moving deeper into the piles.
- Step 4: Carefully scrape the top layers of compost off each pile, exposing the worms underneath.
- Step 5: Repeat this process until most worms remain at the bottom of the piles.
This method is more labour-intensive but effective for quickly harvesting large amounts of compost.
- Tips for Efficient Harvesting
- Use Screening or Sifting: A simple screen or sieve can separate worms and unprocessed bedding from the finished compost. This ensures your compost is free of large particles while returning worms and unfinished material to the bin.
- Prepare for Future Cycles: Once you’ve removed the compost, clean out any residue from the bin, add fresh bedding, and restart the process for the next batch.
- Don’t Overharvest: Always leave enough bedding and some worms in the bin to maintain a healthy colony.
- Storing and Using the Vermicompost
Once harvested, your vermicompost can be used in various ways:
- Mix with Potting Soil: Blend it with regular potting soil to create a nutrient-rich medium for container gardening.
- Topdressing Plants: Sprinkle a thin layer of compost around the base of your plants to improve soil health and moisture retention.
- Compost Tea: Steep vermicompost in water to create a natural liquid fertiliser for your garden.
Storage Tip: Keep your vermicompost in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. If it starts to dry out, lightly mist it with water to maintain its moisture.
Conclusion
Vermicomposting with a plastic container is an affordable, eco-friendly way to recycle kitchen waste and create nutrient-rich compost for your plants. With just a few simple steps, you can set up and maintain a worm bin right at home.
Not only does vermicomposting reduce landfill waste but also produces high-quality compost that improves soil fertility and plant health. Plus, it’s a fun and educational activity for families, teaching kids about sustainability and the importance of recycling.
Why not start your vermicomposting journey today and make a positive impact on the environment?